A Love Affair with Craftsmanship: My Journey Into Jewellery Design
From wax carving at Central Saint Martins to launching Leivankash Jewellery, here’s how it all began. Plus a look at some of my most iconic pieces and a fine jewellery wish-list curated just for you.
If you’ve been following along, you’ll know how much I love talking about travel, fashion, and the art of styling. But this week, I wanted to take a moment to go back to where it all started, and my true passion: jewellery. Not just the pieces I wear and design, but the story behind it all. The education, the early years, and the rollercoaster of building my brand from scratch.
I’m also sharing some of my most treasured designs from the early Leivankash collections, as well as a curated Net-a-Porter jewellery wishlist that I’d happily wear today.
But first, the journey…
I graduated from Central Saint Martins in 2009 with a BA (Hons) in Jewellery Design. Even during university, I knew I wanted to start my own brand. I naturally gravitated towards wax carving, which quickly became my niche. I was obsessed with every part of the jewellery-making process, from carving and casting to polishing, plating, and setting. And so, I began building relationships with casters, gem dealers, and stone setters across London.
By my final year, I was already holding pop-ups and trunk shows, producing lookbooks, designing packaging, and doing everything I could to bring the world of Leivankash to life. I was determined to carve out a space for myself (quite literally) in the industry.
In 2011, my father, ever the pragmatist, gave me a firm ultimatum: get a job or stop idling in London. His grounded, direct approach was a turning point in my career. And honestly? I owe a lot of my focus and resilience to that moment.
I began applying for roles and secured internships with several incredible houses: Stephen Webster, Asprey in London and Suzanne Syz in Geneva. The latter being a jeweller whose couture creations I deeply admire and now own a piece of. I even made it through two interview rounds with Graff London. When I wasn’t offered the job, I felt deflated, but in hindsight, it was exactly the push I needed to go all-in on my brand.
Again, it was my father who lit the fire. He asked to see a proper business plan, complete with projections, budgets, and growth strategy. With the help of my husband (who works in finance) we pulled together a 25-page plan. That proposal secured me the funding to officially launch Leivankash Jewellery in early 2011.
At the time, the landscape was totally different. Instagram was barely a thing (I didn’t join until 2012), and the way we connected with buyers, editors, and clients was much more personal and tactile. There was no digital shortcut, no - it was trunk shows, look books, cold emails, trade shows and word-of-mouth. But what hasn’t changed is the importance of persistence, clarity of vision, and staying true to your design language. I’ve always believed in visualising the end goal then reverse-engineering the steps to get there.
Building the Brand
My first major stockist was Harvey Nichols, where I remained until 2020. From there, everything accelerated. At the height of my wholesale journey, I was stocked in over 170 retailers globally, including Luisa Via Roma in Florence, The Webster in Miami, and concept stores and boutiques from Hong Kong to Kazakhstan.
Each season, I would hand-carve a 30 to 35-piece collection in my studio. Production was done entirely in London, and though I had a small team, it was essentially a two-woman operation. We handled everything! Logistics, customer service, wholesale, press, exhibitions, even trade shows where my mother would help me on the floor.
I exhibited in Paris and New York, and exhibited in London during London Fashion Week, and while I worked with agencies, not all those experiences were positive. One in particular contributed to the burnout I experienced toward the end of my active years. It taught me one of the most important lessons of all:
If someone, whether an agent, PR, or partner tries to reshape your brand into something unrecognisable, that’s a red flag. A great collaborator should understand and amplify your brand’s DNA, not dilute it.
It’s easy to doubt yourself in those early stages. But trust your intuition, and stay close to your creative core. That’s where longevity lives.
Craftsmanship with Depth
After Central Saint Martins, I also completed a Diamond Grading Certificate at the Gemological Institute of America (GIA) London. I never got around to the coloured stones module, which I still regret, especially since gemstones have always fascinated me.
But what I’ve always held on to is this: my passion for jewellery didn’t appear out of thin air. It’s rooted in years of study, hands-on making, and a deep love for materials, symbolism, and craft. Every piece I’ve designed has substance behind it. There is credibility in the creation.
As well as my Net-A-Porter edit, I have curated a high-street jewellery edit which has some incredible pieces at more accessible prices. In particular, I am loving the fish pieces!
I hope you enjoy these edits, and a little glimpse into my early years and the world that shaped me.
With love,
Leila x